CHAPTER 1着物とテキスタイルの構造Structure and Styles of Kimonos

Kimono Basics

Kimono shape

You’ve probably seen people wearing kimonos. But do you know what size a kimono is, what shape the fabric is made from and what the finished product looks like?

The traditional Japanese fabric used to make kimonos is calledtanmono. It is a long, narrow bolt of fabric, typically measuring about 36–40cm (14–16in) in width and approximately 12–15m (40–50ft) in length. This size is specifically designed to provide just enough material to create one standard-sized kimono or other traditional garment.

For shorthaori jacket and long-sleevedfurisode, bolts of fabric are made with the length of fabric needed. Basically, one bolt is used to make a kimono. Even for smaller people, the excess fabric is tucked in rather than cut shorter.

Unlike ready-to-wear clothing, kimonos are usually tailored to fit the wearer, so the fabric from atanmono is cut and sewn according to individual measurements. The design and patterns on the fabric are carefully aligned and adjusted during the tailoring process to ensure symmetry and balance when worn.

A fabric panel for a kimono

For a kimono, the roll of fabric is cut into eight parts: the front and back body, two collar sections, two sleeves and twookumi sections (narrow panels that add width). In most cases, the fabric is cut in a straight line along the fibres, so no parts are discarded. Therefore, if the kimono is unstitched and resewn, it can be restored to the original roll of fabric before it is stitched. Formal kimonos, such asfurisode, tomesode