Chapter One
Hangzhou, China, 1983
“Just get to China before it changes too much,” my flight attendant colleague had advised a year earlier, transforming the trajectory of my life in ways I could not have imagined.
I pushed the key into the lock, turned it, and shoved the door open, entering my first abode in Hangzhou. The dimly lit corridor barely revealed a dark cavernous high-ceiling room. As instructed, I slipped the wooden part holding the key into the wall slot magically activating the room’s electricity.Western hotels should save electricity like this, I thought as I flipped on the overhead switch, exposing two single beds with red-flowered comforters providing a bit of brightness in the otherwise unadorned room. A thermos and teacups sat on a round table near a huge wooden desk in front of a window, its grey curtains hiding the outside world. An ancient armoire almost reached the ceiling.
I crossed the concrete floor to a huge bathroom with a tub and shower head (though no shower curtain), a Western-style toilet, a sink with a chipped glass shelf, and an equally chipped mirror above. On the shelf sat a comb with a few black hairs, a thick tumbler, and a tiny piece of soap.
Our tour group had been assigned to this guesthouse, situated in a government compound outside Hangzhou proper. China was experiencing a hotel room shortage as she opened her doors wider and wider to the outside world, resulting in groups being assigned to unexpected places—in our case, a guesthouse intended for Chinese officials.
Knock, knock, knock. I opened the door. There was a man with my large suitcase.
“Xie xie (thank you),” I said, nodding to indicate that it was mine. My instinct to give him some coins in thanks was trumped by the warning in my guidebook: don’t tip. A smile was my thanks as I closed the door.
Our first day had been a full one, flying from Hong Kong to Hangzhou, gawking out our huge bus’s windows at roads filled with bikes but few cars, and a lovely welcome at a tea house. I wanted a quick shower before climbing into bed. However, my bathroom ritual when traveling needed to be completed before I could sleep. I dug through my bag, found the Lysol bottle and flip flops. As an 18-year flight attendant veteran, a world traveler, and an obsessive-compulsive to boot, I had packed the tools necessary to make my stay acceptable no matter where I traveled. I dropped the plastic shoes next to the tub, picked up the small roll of rough brown toilet paper, tore off a bit, and folded it into a nice, neat square. I put a teaspoon’s worth of antiseptic and some water on the paper and ran the mixture around the toilet seat, once, twice, three times, making sure I hit every spot. As I turned to sanitize the wash basin and tub, I questioned myself.Do I need to clean them? What was a “real” concern, what wasn’t?
Questioning myself—often leading to intense anxiety—resulted from an Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD) that had plagued me since childhood. Although I had taught myself techniques to combat an obsession, I would know when I was unsuccessful by a flush flowing through me, a warning of the dreaded anxiety to come, demanding an action—in this case, it would insist that I clean the toilet seat again and again and again. Obeying and carrying out the compulsion eventually led to a kind of relief, an exhausting cycle I was too familiar with.
I had